Cultivating Lavender: A Guide to Successful Propagation
Once you have a lavender plant you love, it is natural to want more of it. Propagating lavender from cuttings allows you to create new plants that are genetically identical to the parent plant. It can be an economical way to fill a garden, replace older plants, or share lavender with friends.
Lavender is not difficult to propagate, but success depends on choosing the right stems, keeping the cuttings from drying out, and giving them enough time to develop a healthy root system.
Check the Variety Before Propagating
Before taking cuttings, check whether your lavender variety is patented. Plant patents protect certain varieties and generally prohibit asexual propagation, including propagation from cuttings, without permission from the patent holder.
Patent information may be printed on the original plant tag or listed beside the variety name as “PP,” “PPAF,” or “Plant Patent Applied For.” You can also search the variety through Google Patents or the United States Patent and Trademark Office’s Patent Public Search.
Older varieties, seed-grown lavender, and many traditional cultivars may not be protected, but it is still important to confirm before propagating. If you do not know the name of your lavender, it is best not to assume that it is free to propagate.
When to Take Lavender Cuttings
Lavender cuttings can generally be taken from spring through late summer while the plant is actively growing. Spring and early summer cuttings are often softer and may root more quickly. Later in the season, the stems become firmer and are considered semi-hardwood cuttings.
Choose a time when you can care for the cuttings consistently. Depending on the variety and growing conditions, lavender may take several weeks to develop roots. Allow approximately eight to ten weeks before expecting the plants to be ready for transplanting.
Newly rooted lavender should be planted outdoors at least four to six weeks before your average first frost. This gives the plants time to become established before winter. Cuttings started later in the season may need to be protected and overwintered in containers before being planted the following spring.
Choose Healthy, Nonflowering Stems
Begin with a healthy lavender plant that is free from pests and disease. Using clean, sharp pruning shears, take a cutting approximately three to four inches long. Select a firm, healthy stem without a flower or flower bud. A flowering stem is directing much of its energy toward blooming, while a nonflowering stem can focus more of its energy on forming roots. Make the cut just below a leaf joint. Avoid taking stems that are very woody, damaged, unusually thin, or discolored.
Prepare the Cuttings
Remove the leaves from the lower one-third to one-half of each cutting. No leaves should be buried beneath the soil because they can hold moisture and begin to rot. Leave several sets of leaves at the top of the cutting. These leaves allow the plant to continue photosynthesizing while roots develop. If the stem has a tender green tip, you may leave it in place. If the tip is damaged or beginning to flower, pinch it off so the cutting can direct its energy toward root development.
Rooting Hormone Is Optional
Lavender can root without rooting hormone, but using it may improve consistency and encourage faster root development. Pour a small amount of rooting hormone into a separate container rather than dipping the cutting directly into the original package. Lightly moisten the cut end if directed by the product instructions, dip it into the rooting hormone, and gently tap away any excess. Discard any unused rooting hormone from the separate container rather than returning it to the original package. This helps prevent contamination.
Use a Well-Draining Growing Medium
Lavender cuttings need moisture while rooting, but they are also very susceptible to rot. Use a light, sterile, well-draining propagation mix rather than heavy garden soil. A mixture intended for seed starting or propagation can work well. Additional perlite may be added if the mix holds too much moisture.
Fill a small pot or cell tray with the growing medium and moisten it before inserting the cuttings. Use a pencil or similar tool to make a planting hole so the rooting hormone is not rubbed from the stem. Insert the cutting deeply enough to support it, and gently press the mix around the base. Several cuttings can be placed around the edge of a larger pot as long as the leaves are not crowded together.
Keep the Cuttings Moist, but Not Wet
Place the cuttings in a bright location out of direct afternoon sun. Strong sunlight can cause them to lose moisture faster than they can replace it before roots have formed. Check the growing medium daily. It should remain slightly moist but should never be saturated. Constantly wet soil can cause the stems to rot, while allowing the cuttings to dry completely may prevent them from rooting.
Some growers loosely cover their cuttings with a clear humidity dome or plastic bag. This can help reduce moisture loss, but the cover should not rest against the foliage. Open it regularly to provide airflow and watch carefully for excess condensation or mold.
Check for Root Development
After several weeks, gently tug on the cutting. Resistance may indicate that roots have started to form. You may also notice fresh growth at the top of the plant. Avoid repeatedly pulling the cuttings from the soil to inspect them. New lavender roots are delicate and can be damaged easily.
Once the cuttings have developed a healthy root system, move each plant into its own container filled with a well-draining potting mix. Gradually introduce the plants to stronger sunlight and outdoor conditions before planting them in the garden.
Planting Your New Lavender
Lavender grows best in full sun and soil that drains quickly. Choose the planting location carefully, especially if you have heavy or moisture-retentive soil. Do not bury the crown of the plant, and avoid adding rich compost or moisture-holding material directly around the roots. Lavender generally performs better in leaner soil than it does in soil that remains rich and damp.
Water the new plant as it becomes established, but allow the soil to begin drying between waterings. Once established, lavender prefers less frequent watering than many other garden plants.
Expect Some Losses
Not every cutting will develop roots, even when you follow the correct steps. It is a good idea to start more cuttings than the number of plants you ultimately need.
The variety, age of the parent plant, time of year, temperature, moisture level, and condition of the cutting can all affect the results. Propagation becomes easier with practice, and each group of cuttings helps you better understand what works in your own growing conditions.
Our Favorite Propagation Tools
You do not need a long list of specialized supplies to propagate lavender. Clean pruning shears, small pots or propagation trays, a well-draining growing medium, and optional rooting hormone are enough to get started.
We have gathered some of our favorite lavender-growing and propagation tools on our Amazon page. These are products we have found helpful for taking cuttings, monitoring moisture, and caring for young plants. Check out our favorite picks on Amazon by clicking here.
Propagating lavender takes patience, but it is rewarding to watch a small cutting develop into an established plant. With healthy stems, careful watering, and plenty of time, one lavender plant can eventually become many.
